Experiencing Alexandria | Egypt from within…

It sounds absurd to me that Egypt and Jordan are such two close countries yet it took me all this time to find a reason [ASCAAD 2007 conference] to go and visit Egypt.

I took the boat to Noebe port crossing the red sea from Aqaba. The boat was ok, and it wasn’t such a long journey anyway. My take on our side is the lack of proper scheduling. But reaching Noebe, spotting the small pyramid building and then the actual state of the port was a big shock to me. Apparently this place is used mainly for Egyptian workmen who keep traveling between Jordan and Egypt and thus the conditions of the port are very poor. Though I personally don’t agree on classifying people but unfortunately that was the case. The services if any were very poor, no organization or order in anyway and the biggest shock for me was to discover that there is no direct buses to Alexandria and that I have to take the one to Cairo and from there figure out a way to Alexandria! Being already late in the afternoon and with a heavy bag, a crappy bus and an angry brother; I wasn’t that excited at all.

The bus trip was horrible… the Sina’a desert looked pitch black and the bus was not comfortable. But as we started to approach Cairo, the hidden love for that unknown city was revived in my heart. We reached Cairo by midnight and already I felt immersed in the surreal images I gathered about that city from the cinema, TV and books I read.

We went to Alexandria by taxi, time was already after midnight and I was worried about the next day and my conference.

In the Taxi I managed to relax a bit and let my mind afloat a bit. Hearing Um Kalthoum singing on the radio interrupted by the hauling sound of the engine and the chit-chats between my brother and the driver, mixing that with the stench of fuel made my presence between the world of dreams and the real world almost invisible. I was in two places at the same time.

Alexandria is totally a different story. I fell in love with the city immediately. Egypt is so much different than Jordan in every aspect, architecture, urban life, people, traditions and culture. Being able to experience all that was amazing…

First the architecture: Alexandria is on the sea that gives it a major plus over any other city. The sea is one of my best friends that manage to make me feel good about myself anytime anywhere…

The buildings on the sea front are diverse and colorful… Multi-stories… colonial architecture… pseudo-Islamic… cramped… light and shadow… intimate… authentic… diverse…

And the crown of all buildings is Bibliotheca Alexandrina, the winner of Aga Khan award for Architecture 2004.

The space shows you in a physical way the layers of rich civilization that have come across Alexandria and Egypt. Such a strong manifestation of history full of it…

Urban life and culture: walking on the Courniesh Street is enough of a momentum gear for urban life. The coffee shops that gather people from all sorts sitting drinking tea and shisha night life is amazing… streets still buzzing with cars and people… it seemed that the city is sleepless…

You must pass by a sculpture, a fountain, a clock... their urban spaces are vibrant and well taken of...

Of course I had to try the traditional dishes of “Kushari”, “Um Ali”, “Kaboriya”, “Bolti” fish and sugarcane juice.

I have some Egyptians far relatives so we managed to visit them at their house allowing us more to experience Alexandria from the eyes of its inhabitants.

The way buildings are close to one another and with each house having a balcony you can feel the intimacy as if the whole block is one large building where everyone knows the other.

I managed to take a ride in the train inside the city and discovering Egypt Station that was built by the British during their occupation of the area.

People: Their hearts are made of gold. It is enough to hear them talk to fall in love with them. They are so simple to the extent of naivety. Once you get to know someone on a more personal level they start treating you as if you are their life long friend. They don’t frown!!! And they pay everyone a lot of courtesy. They smile and laugh even if their life is miserable. They enjoy each moment. And they are so light hearted.

I know that Egypt has its down side but at the same time it is such a rich and beautiful place to be. It is the love in every Arab’s heart for a place that everyone sees as the Mother of the world… “Masr Um Aldonyia”….

I had the chance to visit the Pyramids but I wont do them enough praise if I squeeze them in this post… so I’ll do it some other time.